Calculation method of fabric cost
Fabric cost = raw material cost + weaving cost + finishing cost after color printing + inspection and packaging cost + tax + loss of each link
01 Raw material cost
Raw material cost = yarn per meter x yarn price
How to calculate the amount of yarn used per meter? We divide all the fabrics into fabrics without elasticity, weft elasticity and four-sided elasticity to explain separately.
Fabric without elasticity
This color cotton fabric warp density = finished warp density × finished width / this color cotton fabric width guests to our sample fabric or specifications are mostly finished products, has been colored, we need to restore the finished specifications to the specifications of this color cotton fabric.
Weft density of this color cotton = finished weft density × (1 - coloring shrinkage)
Note: color shrinkage, about Cotton 2-5%, polyester-cotton 3-8%, polyester 8-15%, the thinner the cloth color shrinkage, the greater the machine cylinder color than the long car color shrinkage to be large, the smaller the finished fabric steam shrinkage requirements, the greater the shrinkage of color.
Let's take an example, for example, the regular variety Cotton yarn card this color cotton fabric specifications are 21s × 16s/128 × 60 width 63 inches (note that the specifications of the unit of yarn count are British count count, the unit of density are inches, the unit of width is also inches, some specifications are not this unit, can be converted to, for example, the unit of chemical fiber is D, then the number of D × British count = 5314, when the number of D for 150, converted to imperial count = 5314/150 = 35.4 (branches)
Warp yarn usage = (warp density x door width x 0.65) / warp yarn count, i.e. 128 x 63 x 0.65/21 = 249.6 g
Weft yarn amount = (weft density × width × 0.65) / weft yarn count
i.e. 60×63×0.65/16 = 153.6g
In the formula
0.65 is a coefficient, a very rough one, and there are many factors affecting the size of this coefficient here, such as weaving shrinkage, elongation in the warp direction because of tension, loss, etc.
Here the amount of yarn per meter of cloth is not equal to the finished fabric weight per meter per square meter, there is also a coefficient, generally with 0.88, we calculate the amount of yarn is 249.6 + 153.6 = 403.2 g / m, the finished product weight per square meter is about 403.2 × 0.88 = 355 g / m, square meters per square meter weight is 355 / 1.5 (door width) = 237g / square meter Square meters, different fabrics this coefficient varies greatly, in the time of color, there are many factors affecting this coefficient, such as shrinkage, alkali reduction, pre-treatment, etc., many times to rely on experience to sum up this coefficient.
Assuming the price of 21 cotton yarn is 20,000 yuan / ton = 0.02 yuan / gram, then the cost of warp yarn is: 249.6 × 0.02 = 4.992 yuan / meter; similarly, assuming the price of 16 cotton yarn is 18,000 yuan / ton, then the cost of weft yarn is 153.6 × 0.018 = 2.76 yuan / meter. The cost of raw material for this specification of fabric is 4.992+2.76=7.75 yuan/m.
The price of raw materials can be found in the fabric raw material market quotation on the major fabric websites, or you can call and ask the corresponding production factory. Some spinning yarns are more extraordinary, such as some bamboo yarns, very blended chemical fiber fabric ratio yarns, very purpose yarns, there is no stock above the market, need to be fixed spinning, the price is more expensive than conventional yarns, also to affect the cost and delivery time.
Weft stretch fabrics
Conventional weft elastic fabrics have corresponding native cotton fabrics, such as
Cotton stretch poplin finished products.
40 × 40 +40D/133 × 72 57/58 inches corresponding to the color of the cotton is 96 × 72 on the machine door width 84 inches
Cotton stretch yarn card finished products:
16×16+70D/120×40 48/50 inches corresponds to the color cotton is 90×40 on the machine door width 72 inches
Cotton elastic straight tribute finished products:
32×32+40D/190×80 57/58 inches corresponding to the native cotton is 130×80 on the machine door width of 84 inches
Other than the conventional weft elastic fabric door width shrinkage rate is calculated according to this ratio, the general door width shrinkage rate is about 30%, the finished product specifications reduced to the specifications of the native cotton, and then according to the formula of the amount of yarn used without elastic fabric, calculate the amount of yarn used, the cost of raw materials.
Four-sided elastic fabric
The method is the same, but also to the finished fabric specifications to restore to the original color cotton on the machine specifications, and then calculated according to the calculation without stretch.
For example, Cotton four-sided bullet, the finished product specifications are 32s/2 + 70D × 32s/2 + 70d density is 100 × 60 / inch, the width is 46 inches, restore the machine specifications into the native cotton should be 65 × 46 density width is 72 inches, (weft shrinkage of 35%, warp shrinkage of 23%, generally long car tie-dye), according to the previous formula can be Calculate the amount of yarn: (65 + 46) × 72 × 0.65/16 = 325g/m (warp and weft yarn count is the same as the warp and weft density added together), that is, the amount of yarn per meter is 325 grams.
Another example is all-polyester four-sided bullet, the common finished specification 200d + 40d × 200d + 40 density is 118 × 80 / inch width is 57/58, reduced to the specifications of the machine of the native cotton should be the warp and weft density is 82 × 56 (all-polyester four-sided bullet is generally colored with the overflow cylinder, the shrinkage rate is about 30% warp and weft) on the machine width is 84 inches, 200d converted into counts should be 5314/200=26.6 counts, according to the calculation formula of yarn volume: (82+56)×84×0.65/26.6=283g/m.
Other T / R four-sided elastic, T / C four-sided elastic, are the same reason, only the warp and weft shrinkage size is different, the specific shrinkage data to consult people with relevant production experience.
There are some very fabrics, such as warp grosgrain, high shrinkage fabric, wrinkle fabric, etc., I have less contact, no practical experience in this area.
According to the amount of yarn used in this color cotton fabric, and then take into account the warp shrinkage of the color, alkali reduction and other factors, we can roughly calculate the weight per square meter of the finished product, this theoretical calculation of the weight per square meter and the actual weight per square meter is very different, the general error in plus or minus 20 grams / meter or so, can only be used as a reference.
02 Weaving cost
The weaving cost is mainly related to the weft density, followed by the loom.
For example, the general Cotton with air-jet loom, usually said "10 cents a shuttle" that is: weft density divided by 2.54, and then multiplied by 0.1, is the weaving cost, such as conventional varieties Cotton poplin 40 × 40 133 × 72 / inch, the weft density is 72, the calculated weaving fee is 72/2.54 × 0.1 = 2.83 yuan / meter. If it is all chemical fiber filament, without sizing, weaving fee can be calculated by 8 cents.
Some varieties are more difficult to weave, weaving fees and higher, the door width is larger, weaving fees and a little higher, the more high-grade looms, the more expensive weaving fees, shuttle loom weaving fees cheap, piece shuttle loom, large jacquard loom weaving costs expensive.
Low season is cheaper than the high season finishing fee, the first half of the season is low season, the second half is high season. Large factories, on the scale of the factory, governance standards of the factory than the small factory quality assurance, finishing costs are also more expensive, according to the quality requirements of different guests to choose the right factory.
03 color printing after finishing finishing fee
General Cotton with a long car tie-dye, the whole process of active coloring, spring and summer fabric dyeing costs in about 1.5 yuan / m, autumn and winter fabric dyeing costs in about 2.8 yuan.
For general all-polyester fabric with machine cylinder coloring, the dyeing cost is about 1 yuan/meter for spring/summer fabric and about 2 yuan for fall/winter fabric.
General printing according to a few sets of colors, the width of the door width, finishing fees from 2 yuan to 5 yuan.
Embroidery finishing fee is calculated by the number of stitches per meter, generally small machine embroidery is 0.03 yuan/thousand stitches, large machine embroidery, sequin embroidery, towel embroidery, water-soluble embroidery, chain embroidery, patch embroidery, multi-color embroidery, finishing fee has more or less increased.
In short, the higher the quality requirement, the more expensive the corresponding finishing fee.
When calculating these finishing fees, don't forget to include the shrinkage rate, plus the loss. Cotton four-sided elastic fabric, for example, the warp shrinkage rate of 23%, dyeing costs 4.5 yuan / m, if the color cotton is 15 yuan / m, then the color good cost is: 15 / (1 - 23%) + 4.5 = 23.98 yuan / m, plus the loss of 2% (the production process of sewing head, etc.), 23.98 × 1.02 = 24.46 yuan / m.
Other extraordinary fabrics, such as nylon fabric, Tencel, Modal, etc., or extraordinary finishing fees, such as Teflon three anti-treatment, embroidery finishing fees, PU coating, lamination, and so on, need to consult the corresponding production finishing companies in detail to come up with the exact cost.
04 Other expenses
The cost of inspection and packaging is generally 0.1 yuan / m, VAT is 17%, for example, the profit is 1 yuan / m, then you have to pay 0.17 yuan / m tax, if the guest does not need an invoice, you can generally cheap 3%.
It should be noted that the theoretical calculation here is only suitable for custom-made varieties, the very specifications of the fabric. If it is a regular variety, the price above the market is generally cheaper than the theoretical calculation, the actual price has the market price, in the major fabric website basically can be found, because of the large number, each link of the finishing fee is cheap, small loss, there are some jerry-built production out of cheaper, such as less than the weight per square meter, less than the warp and weft density, yarn count is thin, the quality of coloring is not good, with the Spinning line dry poor, bad strength, etc.
Contact: Jeanne yang（MISS）
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