Knitted fabric design with "woven-like" style
In addition to the appearance of conventional knitted fabrics, knitted fabrics can also imitate the appearance of conventional woven fabrics through different organization techniques and yarn materials. The characteristics of woven-like knitted fabrics are the pattern, structure and texture effect of conventional woven fabrics, and the fabric is relatively less elastic, flat and dense.
In recent years, knitted fabrics with woven imitation style are becoming more and more popular, both in major exhibitions at home and abroad, and in the showroom, the frequency of appearance is also increasing, therefore, the woven imitation style is gradually becoming one of the mainstream styles of knitted products.
I. Pattern design of knitted fabric in imitation woven style
When designing the flat pattern of faux woven style knitted fabric, we should try to use the style characteristics of flat pattern to improve the appearance of woven sense of knitted fabric. Because the straight line geometric pattern is composed of straight lines, its own style will add a hard and bracing visual effect to the knitted fabric, so it is a more common flat decorative pattern for the imitation woven style knitted fabric. At the same time, the plant pattern is easy to imitate the appearance effect of printed woven fabrics, so it is also commonly used in imitation woven style pattern design.
1、Straight line geometric pattern
Stripes are one of the more common decorative techniques in garment design. The color changes are random and rich, the weaving process is simple, and the texture effect is easy to obtain.
In the knitting process, the more common appearance of woven striped fabrics can be formed by constantly and regularly changing yarns. In the imitation woven style knitted fabric timing, also according to the knitting process characteristics of knitted fabrics to make the stripe pattern changes more rich, the use of miscellaneous yarns combined with less elastic metal wire, the same color stripe pattern shades interspersed with the formation of woven fabric design common dark stripe jacquard pattern, and the fabric is flat and dense, imitation woven style more strongly.
The check pattern is flat and vertical, consistent with the woven fabric plain fabric warp and weft, and rich in variation, so it is widely used in the woven fabric pattern design.
The pattern of regular knitted fabric in imitation of woven style is usually made of jacquard, such as sesame dot jacquard, which is rich in variation of pattern, and the fabric is flat and small in ductility.
In the design process of knitted fabrics, we should make full use of the special effect of yarn to make the faux woven style design of fabrics richer. For example. Use 4-color jacquard tissue to knit plaid pattern with different widths, and at the same time, use forward and backward needle tissue to make the middle part depressed, and the fabric surface is more rich in layered texture.
It should be noted that since the check pattern is used more on the tweed fabric in autumn and winter, sometimes strong shrinkage process or brushing process is also used to make the appearance of knitted fabric closer to the texture of woven tweed.
③Herringbone pattern and back pattern
Herringbone pattern and back to the pattern is one of the woven fabrics commonly used dark pattern, so in order to make the imitation woven style of knitted fabrics with more strong woven fabric style will generally also use dark pattern design.
Herringbone pattern and zigzag pattern is often formed by single-sided plain pattern fabric, single-sided two-color pattern fabric, double-sided two-color pattern fabric, etc. The changes of pattern size, yarn thickness, arrangement and combination, color shape, etc. are more subtle and regular. In the design process, you can also use the knitting process, the color and material of the yarn to make changes to form a more interesting and rich herringbone pattern, zigzag pattern.
In figure b, the design is antique in style, with matte cotton or linen yarn and embellished with metallic wire, rich in the flavor of ancient brocade. In figure c, the floating threads are used, but the short floating threads are pulled out by the white thick yarn and the black thin yarn is the bottom, which makes the floating threads of herringbone pattern more prominent and the fabric looks thick and dense, fully imitating the appearance of the woven herringbone coat fabric in autumn and winter; in figure d, the floating threads pulled out by the floating threads are arranged and combined to form the zigzag pattern, and its details are more varied.
It can be seen that the herringbone pattern and zigzag pattern can not only be used as dark weave patterns, but also be designed as pattern elements, and the appearance effect will be more innovative when adding yarn material changes.
The bird check is a classic pattern that has been used in tweed fabrics since the 19th century and has been widely used in knitted products in recent years.
It is usually used on outerwear, so the fabric is relatively stiffer and more rigid. It is usually woven with jacquard tissue, which makes the whole fabric effect flat and dense. However, when designing knitted fabric in imitation of woven style, we should make full use of the process characteristics of knitted fabric, for example, we can use the unique tissue of knitting process to achieve the pattern effect. In Fig. b, the floating threads of the floating thread tissue are used to form a thousand bird check pattern with obvious concave and convex changes, and the appearance of the fabric is thicker and richer.
⑤ Other straight-line geometric patterns
The minority pattern applied to the imitation woven style knitted fabric is a more innovative design. As shown in the figure, the pattern is imitating the characteristic costume of Chinese Hua-waist Dai people, using the speciality of knitting process, which consists of complex and varied geometric patterns of different sizes arranged in combination with each other, with complex patterns and strong style. Therefore, the use of jacquard tissues with the thread-changing process can make the ethnic patterns on the garment endlessly variable. At the same time, adding the draw stitch process in the weaving process can weave the common pleats in ethnic minority clothing, which is fresh and interesting.
The design of multiple pattern combinations is shown in the figure. On the left, the herringbone pattern, checkered pattern, stripes and return pattern are re-combined and arranged according to the design, making the pattern complex, varied and creative. On the right, the stripes and checks are redesigned, and the style and visual effect are completely different from the left.
Combined with the characteristics of knitting technology, the pattern can be redesigned according to the style of clothing, fully reflecting the characteristics of knitted fabrics in imitation woven style. Such as the application of minority patterns on the imitation woven style knitted fabric, but also the innovative application of straight line geometric patterns.
Both figurative plant patterns and abstract plant patterns have good decorative effect.
① Printing process
When woven fabrics are designed with botanical patterns, a simpler method is printing process, so printed woven fabrics are also more common.
To achieve the appearance of printed woven fabrics, the most commonly used knitted fabric tissue is sesame dot jacquard. Sesame dot jacquard can achieve complex and detailed patterns, while the fabric is flatter, denser, less ductile and has a certain degree of stiffness, which is basically in line with the characteristics of conventional printed woven fabrics.
It should be noted that, due to the difference between knitted fabric and woven fabric weaving process, generally woven fabric in the design of the pattern, in order to facilitate the printing, the pattern is mostly regular pattern, such as four-sided continuous pattern, etc.. When designing the pattern of knitted fabric, the pattern is edited in advance in the computer software and then knitted, so the pattern can not be limited to the regular pattern, there can be rich changes in the complete pattern, the use can be more flexible, so as to fully reflect the characteristics of knitted fabrics.
In the design of imitation woven style knitted fabric plant pattern, we should also pay attention to the use of fancy yarn, and make appropriate embellishment in the pattern, which will make the fabric pattern texture more rich and interesting.
Besides using printing process, embroidery process is also used to form botanical patterns on the surface of woven fabrics. As the woven fabric is less elastic, it is easier to embroider on its surface, but its comfort is a little less.
For example, home cushions break the habit of using woven fabrics for home products, and use flatter weft knitted fabric for embroidery, which not only has the appearance effect of woven fabric, but also feels softer and more comfortable for daily use at home, fully reflecting the characteristics of knitted fabric.
③ Knitting process
In the process of designing knitted fabric in imitation of woven style. While imitating the appearance effect of woven fabrics, we should also make full use of knitting technology to enrich the details of fabrics as much as possible and reflect the characteristics of knitting technology.
Knitted fabrics are designed by designers right from the source fiber or yarn. Whether it is to embellish the appearance decoration or to strengthen the fabric performance, the material of yarn should be paid attention to and used appropriately. At the same time, the pattern of knitted fabric is also designed and finished by the designer, which means that the pattern of knitted fabric or garment is controlled by the designer. Therefore, the position, size, color and arrangement of the pattern can be shaped in one piece after design, which is more flexible than conventional woven fabrics. Designers can take advantage of this special feature to create more clever decorative patterns.
When designing knitted fabric in imitation woven style, in order to make the appearance effect reach the flatness and tightness of conventional woven fabric, we should try to reduce the overly complicated texture, make the changes as subtle and delicate as possible, and keep the fabric neat and tidy.
Second, the organization structure design of knitted fabric in imitation of woven style
The basic tissue structure of regular woven fabrics is plain, twill and satin. 3 kinds of woven fabrics have different characteristics. Plain fabric is even and flat, twill is thick and tight, satin is smooth and thin. When imitating the tissue structure of conventional woven fabrics, we should pay attention to the different appearance of woven fabrics with different tissues, and combine the process characteristics of knitted fabrics for design.
1、Imitation plain fabric
Regular woven plain weave fabric has more interweaving points, is lighter and thinner, and has good air permeability. Because its most obvious appearance is flat, so in the imitation of woven style knitted fabric plain tissue design, we should try to maintain the uniformity and neatness of the fabric.
To achieve the characteristics of plain tissue in appearance design, the more commonly used tissue is sesame dot jacquard knitted fabric with dense and small ductility.
In addition to the plain woven fabric appearance effect, more innovative approach is to use the plain fabric warp and weft yarn every other yarn interwoven warp and weft horizontal and vertical interlocking tissue structure for design.
2、Imitation twill organization
Conventional woven twill fabric is tight and thick, and the fabric has obvious diagonal grain appearance characteristics. In the design of knitted fabric with imitation woven twill tissue, in order to achieve the effect of twill pattern, we generally use needle transfer tissue for weaving. However, a single needle transfer tissue cannot achieve a better texture effect of twill fabrics, and its innovative application is to add a bobbin guide to knit together.
The fabric is knitted with a bobbin guide on the basis of the needle transfer tissue, using two different thicknesses of near-color yarn, because the fine part can not cover the coarse part, the coarse color becomes the main color of the fabric, and the fine color is sandwiched in the coarse thread to form a pattern. Thus presenting the obvious appearance effect of twill woven fabric.
3、Imitation satin organization
Because the interweaving points of the satin fabric are far apart and arranged in a certain order, independent and discontinuous, therefore, the appearance of the fabric is smooth and light in texture. In the knitting fabric knitting process, the floating line organization is more suitable for imitating the structural characteristics of satin organization, because the floating line organization fabric is less ductile, so it has better dimensional stability compared with the conventional knitted fabric, so that the fabric performance is also a certain imitation of conventional woven fabrics.
In the process of knitting, the parts involved in knitting are arranged according to the bit i structure of satin interweave point, forming the effect of satin interweave point, and the other parts not involved in knitting are also pulled out the floating thread like satin tissue, so that the structure is the same as satin tissue.
Regular woven fabrics are relatively more delicate and subtle in texture, therefore, imitation woven style knitted fabrics should pay attention to the use of yarn when imitating the appearance of the tissue structure. In order to ensure the fabric is flat and highlight the fabric texture, try to avoid using fancy yarns with long pile on the surface, so as not to cover the tissue texture. While imitating the appearance of woven fabric structure, we should also use the process characteristics of knitted fabrics to make innovative designs.
While imitating the texture of twill woven fabric, add the collection loop tissue in knitting process to make it show the effect of broken off silk, and then match with denim color yarn, so as to form a retro denim style. Because the knitted fabric has good elasticity, it is more comfortable than twill denim fabric and better reflects the design characteristics of knitted fabric
In the innovative design of knitted fabric in imitation woven style, it is not only limited to pattern design or tissue design, but also combine the two closely to give full play to their respective characteristics, for example, embroidery on knitted fabric in imitation twill. For example, embroidery on satin knitted fabric or printing on satin knitted fabric. The effect of the two together will make the appearance of the imitation woven feeling very obvious.
With the development of knitting industry, knitted fabrics with faux woven style also gradually play their technical characteristics, and the aesthetics of knit designers, making their visual appearance rich and creative, and the wearing experience is also better and more comfortable. In this paper, we conduct innovative research on the graphic pattern and organization structure of faux woven knitted fabrics, hoping to provide designers with some ideas and methods to combine design and technology to develop artistic and technical faux woven knitted fabrics.
Contact: Jeanne yang（MISS）
E-mail: [email protected]
Add: Room A2216/A2217,Double-Star Building,No 567 New South Middle Road, KunShan City JiangSu Province ,China.